Like my earlier promise to review fashion shows, here is my take on the just concluded Lagos fashion week that took place from march 23rd to 25th 2018 sponsored by Heineken.
Although I wasn’t in attendance, I was privileged to exhaust my MTN data bundle on YouTube watching the show through and through including the highlights.( see my life).
Lagos fashion week popularly abbreviated as LFDW (i.e. Lagos Fashion and Design Week) is an annual, multi-day fashion event held in Lagos, Nigeria and was founded in 2011 by Omoyemi Akerele. LFDWNG provides a platform for buyers, media, and fashion enthusiasts to view collections from leading designs in Nigeria and from across Africa.
The platform aims to cut across geographic and cultural barriers, and place itself as a business of fashion and design event targeted at showcasing the best of the African fashion and design industry, drive the Nigerian fashion industry and to ultimately uplift its profile within the economy. LFDW has expanded its scope by creating two main platforms that run concurrently with the fashion week: Fashion Business series and Fashion Focus. LFDWNG also advocates for the industry with the government as well as potential investors.
This year’s show, although it started an hour late (Nigerian time *rolls eyes*), was a lot different from their other shows. The venue for this year's show was The wings by Oando, and space had some sort of resemblance to a New York loft. As opposed to last year, the decorations were kept to a minimal as rows of white benches faced a slightly risen white platform. The entire setup was a lot more understated than its September counterpart and it was evident that the clothes were the only attraction this year.
This year's fashion week consisted of a host of designers each bringing up different perspectives and advising us to embrace ourselves, be edgy, bold and accepting through their clothes. The show's schedule included:
Sisiano(1:30-2:00), Re(3:00-3:30), Kenneth Ize(4:30-5:00), Style Temple(6:00-6:30), Orange Culture(7:30-8:00)
Maxivive(1:30-2:00), Sunny Rose(3:00-3:30), Emmy Kasbit(4:30-5:00), Onalaja(6:00-6:30), Tsemaye Binitie(7:30-8:00), Bridget Awosika(9:00-9:30)
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| Gozel Green Collection |
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| Gozel Green Collection |
For day 1 of the LFDWNG Autum/Winter 2018 presentations, opening the 3-day events were Gozel Green, Mo Augusto, and IAMISIGO.
Gozel Green: a deconstructed aesthetic brand owned by twin sisters, Sylvia Enekwe and Olivia Jude-Okoji, which was founded in 2010. When asked by Vogue Italia to describe the brand in three words, the sisters replied:
“If we had to use three adjectives we’d say: 'Gozel Green is an artistic, timeless and original brand.' Our style is alternative, vibrant and outwardly androgynous. Everytime we create a garment, we always have clear in our mind these features: eccentric cuts, destructured shapes and eye-catching hues and textures.” And they stayed true to their stand; Olivia of Gozel Green’s main aim was to tell a story, the designer aimed to initiate an individual storytelling process in fashion and it made room to unify the diverse styles of the different cultural backgrounds in Nigeria. The Gozel Green show was a great presentation of the brand’s unusual style. Prominent colors in their palette, aside from neutrals, were green and red.
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| Mo Augusto |
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| My favourite of Augusto’s pieces |
Mo Augusto: owes her ’big break’ to the team behind the LFDW, in particular, The Fashion Focus Platform; which offers designers the opportunity to participate in a program where 5 participants are chosen. The lucky individuals are then given the opportunity to attend seminars and classes, as well as paired up with mentors who help guide them through the journey. The participants are then given the chance to showcase their work amongst established designers at the next HLFDW (Heineken Lagos Fashion and Design Week). Having completed her course last year, Mo Augusto returns to show her success, and boy she is killing it; establishing herself as the “New brand for the cool girls”, Mo Augusto, through her clothes, is saying to women: embrace the old by being lady-like, but do not be confined by it. Mo Augusto manages to strike a delicate balance between the feminine, the flirty, and the powerful!
While she initially started as a “made to measure” designer, after the HLFDW Fashion Focus, Mo re-launched her brand as a ready-to-wear brand.
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| IAMISIGO and her theatrics… |
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| IAMISIGO |
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| IAMISIGO |
IAMISIGO: is giving a new meaning to the tailoring aesthetic of a generation. IAMISIGO is a brand that targets those who dare to stand out, damn the consequences. Founded by Nigerian stylist and creative art director Bubu Ogisi in 2009, the brand has grown from strength to strength and come to be synonymous with the modern Nigerian girl; the global citizen who is fashion savvy and is also very much in touch with her African heritage and draws inspiration from all the places she has been to. Bubu Ogisi launched her label to show us how our deep rooted African culture can be merged with a minimal and modern design aesthetic. IAMISIGO is not just about the message, it is the empowerment of the modern Nigerian woman who exists comfortably somewhere between here and everywhere else and wants that to be visible in every facet of who she is including what she chooses to wear.
Typical IAMISIGO going out of the norm to try something different. The models had their puffy hair back-combed and a thick stripe of white paint was boldly painted across their faces. IAMISIGO’s presentation this year was very theatrical showing how much thought they had put into the choreography, it was as much a moving art installation as it was a fashion presentation. The collection was held together, literally and figuratively, by pieces of string which was featured in one way or another in every single piece.
DAY 2 ----------------------------------------
The second day of LFDWNG to a lot was the best! Most of the people in attendance from my concensus described the fashion moments as ‘epic’.
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| SISIANO |
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| SISIANO |
The evening commenced with
Sisiano, who like many others decided to be androgynous: presenting both male and female wear. In planet Sisiano Autum/Winter 2018, there was a lot of dabble in a sea of powder pink, camel, mustard(my all time fave!) and white with a dollop of bottle and olive green. The silhouette for both the men and women was for the most part fluid, thick cowled(hooded) shapes, asymmetric long line cardigans, and trousers that were low in the crotch region, but decent enough not to delve into costume territory. Moving on, especially designed for men with such exquisite taste included: a velvet and chiffon pullover teamed with wide legged trousers. Boy that had me at phew! Also very clever, shocking and ever so wearable was a bottle green trouser with a tuxedo style stripe but a utility fit. The women’s wear was nice though, but had a more mixed message and approach, with body con, frou-frou, and a 70’s referenced style all jumbled in a pot to produce the mixed effect. However, the men’s style more than made up for it
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| RE |
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| RE |
RE also sent out a collection of mixed efforts. Re, known as a maestro of
aso’oke, opened with a silk aquamarine long wrapped skirt and cropped balloon sleeved blouse before going to show her
aso’oke pieces of varying lengths and strengths. I could totally see a lot of Re’s pieces making their way into many closets for those wanting to make statements with her clothes; the white dropped shoulder dress mini, the trapezium rainbow shift dress all providing the lady with a girly feel while in them. Though the A-line thigh grazing skirts with matching cropped tops and chiffon and the
aso’oke baby doll dresses, not so much. There was a series of long line waistcoats with trousers, an attempt to show diversity, but within this particular collection felt more like a supplement than an essential. An electric blue zigzag cape top paired with pale grey cigarette pants was well executed and hinted at where the collection should have headed. Sometimes, “less truly is more”
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KENNETH IZE
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| Boys looking to make fashion statements, choose KENNETH IZE |
And then came
Kenneth Ize. The wait was epic, but I was kinda hoping for more in the show and the start showed a lot of promise, so I held on to that glimmer of hope. With my data running(smh), I could see as the taste makers and style icons and retailers took their perches in the front row with
Reni Folawiyo, Nkiru Anumudu, Ozina Anumudu, and Tola Adegbite, among those keen to see the collection and presumably purchase. The collection was entirely made from either aso’oke(not so sure), in this instance fashioned into rich groovy palette combinations from teal with mustard, to aubergine with a gold shot egg-yolk, and tye-dye cottons in indigo, black and canary. These pieces were aimed at re-fashioning and re-purposing which made every one of the pieces seem to shout ‘Buy Me And Change Your Life Forever!’ For the bold persons, there was a series of single breasted, double vented jackets for both men and women, with slim line pants, and, for those who preferred things more subdued, jumbo scarves. Even the footwear, brushed leather sandals that came in complimentary colors to the pieces they adorned.
Kenneth Ize’s presentation really was riveting and I did not regret the data leaving my phone one bit.
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| OG Okonkwo, My favourite of her pieces |
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| OG Okonkwo |
Style Temple’s
OG Okonkwo is another amazing designer who knows just what the modern day femme fatale wants in her wardrobe of seduction! Her pieces inspired slinky and sexy that worked a charm late in the evening and this season, she offered a collection of just ten pieces that would more than fulfil their demands, but with some fascinating add-ons. The show opener took the vintage route to the 18th century with a white skirt that had a hoop petticoat silhouette and was teamed with a white bodice that was more an adorned bra with capsicum orange lace trailing straps. It was such a strong beginning, sadly abandoned for a series of silk jerseys that just didn’t do it for me.
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| Orange Culture |
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| Orange Culture |
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| Orange culture’s statement |
Orange Culture: a brand created by Adebayo Oke-Lawal. It is a brand that has done much to push the conversation of gender dynamics and is simultaneously commercially successful. Unlike anyone else, he provided themes of precipitation, it’s transformative effect and the opportunity for men to literally wear their hearts on their sleeves with his clothes. It’s really good to see such touches, as they give contexts and set the parameters of purpose, not only for the collection but also for the clothes. Helping us get the answers to those questions: What are we looking at? How will a person feel while wearing this piece? These questions are important especially when selling luxury.
A set was created, with umbrellas suspended from the roof, maybe to signify a change of season. Standouts(and there was quite a number) included: an abbreviated trench coat with cowery shells on the belt hoops, a mustard single breasted jacket with a sole jumbo purple button as fastening, an oxblood apron skirt worn over trousers and a series of print two pieces.
The female pieces came in the form of long tunics, which were competent, but did not pack as much of a punch as that of the men’s pieces. The hero piece, however, was a claret and black long line tunic sweater which was masterful in its tessellation and gave the checkerboard look.
The second day came to a close and it was as invigorating as it was thrilling. And I just couldn’t wait for the 25th which wasn’t only the 3rd day, but my birthday and I couldn’t wait to see what presents LFDWNG had in store for me.
Day 3 -------------------------------------------
The last days of anything always come with a tinge of sadness and so it was with LFDWNG. After getting into the rhythm and watching closely(with my MTN data) the different elements of the fashion industry coalescing from the designers to the conveners to the buyers, models and the enthusiasts that all became overwhelmed in the end and moved to tears.
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| MAXIVIVIE |
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| MAXIVIVIE |
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| MAXIVIVIE |
Show opener for the 3rd day was
Maxivive and he certainly had the community front and centre with his collection, with its glitter drenched set that had “lustre” decorated with colors on a theatrical curtain. A baby’s bath and a lilo were placed on stage left and right, a reference to water and its ability to both cleanse and renew. The first model walked out looking well… in a green and red single breasted suit, hair in a bouffant and in full drag make up, I was glued! Even with my exams around the corner(for shame!), the female models were beareded and butched-up and paraded around the set in gender neutral pieces. There was so much going on that it was easy to get immersed in the theatre of the show and miss the clothes, so to speak.
Papa Oyeyemi(Maxivive) was daring us to embrace our fierceness, queerness and individuality. Life was all too brief and glorious to fade anonymously into the background so, the clothes we wear should be a statement of intentional living.
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| Sunny Rose |
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| Sunny Rose |
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| Sunny Rose |
In contrast to the really intesnse presentation from Maxivive,
Sunny Rose had a completely different idea for the women wearing her pieces. For the Sunny Rose woman, its all about luxury living with a capital ‘L', with some gauzy silk
aso’oke print and lace for good measure. The collection was evening and cocktail heavy, with a ball gown among the pieces also joining the mix; silk pewter jumpsuits, lace pencil skirts suits layered with turquoise long sleeved chiffon blouses and hip skimming boot cut pants in brushed gold and aquamarine. A sequence of teal, grey and white
aso’oke pieces, the finest of which was a maxi house coat. The Sunny Rose pieces evoked private income and philanthropy rather than going through the hustle bustle of the city.
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| Onajala |
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| Onajala |
The night came to a close with
Onajala and she chose to do a tailoring deep dive into the art of dressing in BLACK!( my number 1 fave) but with one caveat, make sure its high octane glamour, your heels are high, hair scraped off your face and eyes lined. Hemlines and silhouettes moved around as color was the only unifier, so they ranged from frou-frou, A-line polka dot netted cocktail dress, to a long column dress. With her pieces it is very easy to see both the commerciality of this collection and, by having such an array of silhouettes, the way it would appeal to an audience, who, judging from their applause and cheers, loved to go out a lot and needed everything shown.
The first half of LFDW 2018 had come to a close and I was so inspired to pick up my pencil and sketch pad, but that’ll have to wait. I am so looking forward to November and I’ll be sure to keep you guys posted as I drain my data once more watching how LFDW is making headway and re-defining fashion in Nigeria! Taking sartorial depths to new heights, introducing our
aso’oke, our
Ankara prints, the
akwocha material of the delta people.
And so the LFDW2018 came to a close.
To be continued...
- Fashion Fairy
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3 comments:
Wow they're all uniquely gorgeous designs
I also looove that OG Okonkwos' white masterpiece 😍😍😍..................what better way to close than with the Beautiful Black👌❤❤❤
But this article is so long though.
I have to admit, I kinda just looked at the pictures.
The time thing at the beginning was helpful at least to let me what's up and what to expect. Keep it up.
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